Watches

VACHERON CONSTANTIN OVERSEAS

Back in 2016, Vacheron Constantin introduced a brand new, fully redesigned collection for the emblematic Overseas. A new shape, although not entirely unfamiliar, featured new styling, new standards of luxury, new movements and new complications… Overall, a very profound update. If all the editions are desirable and full of interest the cornerstone of the collection remains the entry-level offer, the present Overseas Automatic 4500V.

As we already explained, the design of the new Overseas is a combination of some elements of past models, with an overall new shape. While all the previous versions, from the 222 to the 1990s versions or the just discontinued ones, were based on a sharp barrel case, the new edition has more curves – the case is still a tonneau-shaped one, although the sides are more rounded. This changes the perception of the watch, slightly more elegant and maybe a bit less masculine overall. Yet, the classic touches remain, such as the serrated bezel shaped like a broken Maltese cross – again, it is a slight design evolution, as the recessed parts seem inverted compared to the previous version, and the whole bezel is properly round.

In terms of proportions and design, we’re fully in the “luxury sports-watch” territory. A quite large diameter, at 41mm (even if it is 1mm less than the previous edition), a combination of brushed surfaces with polished accents and bevels, relatively thin profile, at 11mm, an integrated bracelet and overall a superb construction and finishing. Indeed, one thing that immediately comes to mind when playing with this Vacheron Constantin Overseas Automatic 4500V is the overall feeling of quality and attention to details. Whatever the angle, wherever you look, the execution is simply stunning. Perfect adjustments, sharp transitions between the different surfaces, high-gloss polishing, beautiful brushing… It feels like you are not in the sports watch category anymore, but very well into high-end watchmaking.

A special mention should be made for the steel bracelet. A close look reveals an incredible amount of details: polished and satin-brushed finished links, a polished chamfer on the edges, and polished interior angles on the centre of the links… This is something that is usually found on movements, not bracelets. Overall, the iconic design of the bracelet, mimicking a Maltese cross is still present, and gives the Overseas Automatic 4500V a very distinctive look – masculine, yet elegant and refined.

Vacheron Constantin also had the clever idea to create an interchangeable bracelet. We’ve all faced that: taking a watch with steel bracelet, fighting for half an hour with low-quality tools to remove it, and that operation mainly ended in scratching the back side of the lugs… Yet, changing the straps/bracelets has become a recurrent game. What VC has done with the Overseas Automatic 4500V is to create a quick-release device, where you simply push a button between the lugs to release the bracelet. And the other good point is that the box comprises two extra straps – rubber and leather – as well as a dedicated folding clasp. A clever way to make your watch versatile, and to protect its beautifully finished case.

For the dial, Vacheron Constantin decided to go visually simple for this new Overseas collection. A good point considering that the case has quite some complex shapes. Compared to the older model, we have a more refined and clean design. The not-so-appropriate Arabic numerals are now gone and are replaced by 18k white gold applied baton indexes. It’s the same recipe for the hands: slimmer, longer and classier. Finally, the dial of the Overseas Automatic 4500V offers great legibility, thanks to two independent tracks: one for the minutes on the periphery of the dial, and one for the seconds on the inner flange.

Also, the date goes back to a natural position, at 3. Some will argue about the presence or not of such a window on a watch, but knowing this edition is meant to be a daily-beater, the date makes sense. The dial, even if apparently simple, is actually beautifully made: a plate with a sun-ray pattern in the centre, on top of which is applied a translucent lacquer, which leaves visible the surface finishing underneath. This brings an interesting depth to the dial.

Turn the watch over and you’ll discover quite an engine – maybe not in terms of look, as this movement is quite shy and hides a lot of its technical components, but in terms of specifications.

This automatic calibre 5100, developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin and adorned with the hallmark of Geneva, is composed of 172 parts. It beats at the rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour and is endowed with a comfortable 60-hour power reserve, guaranteed by its twin barrels

The transparent screwed-down caseback reveals the precious 22K gold oscillating weight adorned with a compass rose; itself decorated in various ways: with frosted surfaces, brushed parts and polished parts. The decoration of the movement itself is very pleasant (hallmark of Geneva obliges) and shows no flows – nice chamfers, bevelled wheel, polished screws… One side note: the decoration is quite cold and a bit clinical, even if done with state-of-the-art techniques. A bit more extravagance or more opened bridges would have added some more pleasure.

All in all, the Vacheron Constantin is a very serious package: nice movement, superb execution of the case, dial and bracelet, historically-relevant details and a strong DNA. The Overseas new-gen is clearly worthy of its name.